Again, I have not posted here in too long.
[Apparently I started writing this in September 2024… Happy New Year!]
While that would normally make me feel bad, I have good news in that I have been filling my spare time pretty productively for the past year or so.
Recently, I’ve been working on a comedy project with some pals. Hopefully one day we’ll have something recorded so that I can add another something else to this here website, but for now it’s just nice to be writing fairly consistently.
I had a weird, fun thing come my way in Spring. In classic me fashion, this will require some, probably too much, backstory. Sorry.
Cast your mind back to the summer of 2022!!
I booked a relatively short-notice trip to Chicago to see Guided by Voices play at a free festival in Logan Square. A previously planned family trip to Chicago in May 2020 had been cancelled, so I decided to take a few days on either side of the festival to be a tourist. My to-see list was extensive, filled with no-brainers (the architecture boat tour, looking at the bean, the Art Institute, etc) and weird little things (going to Joan Cusack’s gift shop). Incidentally, when I went to said gift shop, she was working there and was so so nice. I did not acknowledge that she’s an absolute queen because she just wants to get on with running her shop. I nearly died when something I said made her laugh, even if it was just out of politeness. Maybe we’ll become pals someday…
Part of my plan was to check out all of the bars listed by Michael Shannon in this article. M-Shan is my absolute fave, and I knew that if anybody was going to have a trustworthy taste in dive bars, it’d be him.
Old Town Ale House was great. I went twice with two different friends in the space of two days, then another two times during a trip to Chicago five months later.
Weeds was also very chill. They were playing Talking Heads and had so much space, including a patio that looked excellent. I haven’t been back since, but I will.
Most importantly, though, on my second last night in town, I found myself at the L&L Tavern. If you didn’t click the above link, this is how Michael Shannon describes it:
“It was a dive bar full of geniuses and eccentrics like you might imagine at New York’s White Horse Tavern in its heyday with Dylan Thomas slurring his eloquent speech … Sometimes I would climb up the side of the building it was in. The next time you drive by, just imagine me hanging off the side like Alex Honnold climbing El Capitan.”

I was very intrigued, so I made sure to stop by. It was a Sunday night, just after 9pm, and as I opened the door into the bar, I saw that there were just two other customers there. The only sound, other than the chatter from the couple sitting at the bar, came from the tinny speakers of a TV showing an endless stream of Ed Sullivan Classics. I sat at the bar and ordered a Miller Lite. One half of the couple tried to start and argument with the guy behind the bar. I think they claimed that they’d had a Hamm’s in a bottle from the L&L and they were told that Hamm’s hasn’t been sold in bottles for years or something. I may be misremembering that. Hamm-heads, sound off in the comments.
Anyway, it was very clear that this beleaguered barkeep didn’t have much time for this couple and kept to himself as best he could. Fortunately, they left soon after but not before bitching about the sizes of paper cups by the water dispenser or another thing just as tedious. The guy behind the bar visibly softened once they disappeared. He introduced himself to me as Kenny, the owner, and reassured me that the place was usually much busier with people. I was wearing a GBV tshirt, so he asked if I’d gone to see them the night before (yes) and we started talking about indie rock. A regular came in and introduced himself to me. At first he was in high spirits after a day at the beach, but he ended up getting emotional over an ex love. He cried. Kenny left me to deal with this turn of events and went down to the far end of the bar and pretended to be busy. Eventually, Kenny returned, told the sweet guy that he never liked his ex anyway, poured some Nerds onto the bar and said, “stop crying and eat your candy”.

Kenny then poured us each a shot and my new friend, cheered up by now, left with some To Go beers. As I was apparently only the third customer within four hours of the bar being open, I was apologetically told that they were going to close early. He said to come back the next day when they’d be busier and he asked what made me stop by in the first place. Too embarrassed, for some reason, to say “Michael Shannon used to come here”, I pretended to have forgotten. He said, “Ah, it was probably because of Bourdain…”

I got back to my place that evening and searched to find out when Anthony Bourdain had been there. I was surprised to discover that the bar has a Wikipedia page. The introduction to the article at the time was just facts about previous ownership and concluded with the unintentionally hilarious throwaway line, “The bar attracts a mixed crowd”.
Unfortunately, it looks as though the page has been updated, but underneath the intro, the first section heading read SERIAL KILLERS. This was yet another unexpected delight to me that, so fortunately I screengrabbed it.

We’re not even at the point of this entire post yet, so I’m going to leave researching the serial killers of the L&L Tavern to you, if you’ve made it this far.
I never did get the chance to return on that trip, but was able to twice at the end of 2022 and on New Years Day 2023. We were back in Chicago for a run of concerts that got cancelled at the last minute, but my crew and a bunch of long-distance friends had non-refundable flights, so decided to make the journey anyway. As we were all in different groups doing different things over the course of the few days, I insisted that our meeting point would be the L&L. I feel honoured to have brought the place into the lives of this ragtag, international group. Yes, I am taking sole responsibility for that. Unfortunately, Kenny wasn’t in on either of the above occasions, but me and various buds still had the best time. On the New Years Day visit, the bar’s landline rang and was answered by the bartender. She moved the phone away from her ear and shouted to those of us in the room, “Does anybody object to someone bringing a Weiner dog in here?” Of course, we all yelled NO and waited excited for said dog to turn up. When he and his humans arrived, we cheered. He wandered around the place and we learned that his name was PJ. “What does PJ stand for?” my friend asked his owners, unaware that our lives would be changed forever after learning the answer.
PJ stood for Potato Julio.
All of this is to say that the L&L has a very special place in my heart and I chose to honour it when Halloween of 2023 came around. This is for another time, but every year for Halloween since I’ve lived in Toronto, I’ve dressed as a building drawn onto a cardboard box. More often than not, I’ve gone as a bar. Do not read too much into this…

I posted it on Instagram along with an abridged version of the story of my love affair with the L&L and tagged the bar. Their instagram account was pretty much a place-holder that was lying dormant at that point, so I assumed nobody would ever see it…
…Until months and months later, when I received a comment on the above photo from a stranger who turned out to be the guy who had been sad about his ex on my first visit. I’m keeping him anonymous on here but he seems like a legend and we are now internet friends. He apparently was still a regular and must have shown my photo to his pals who worked there because they got in touch with me and asked if they could post it on the L&L’s page. They did and then shortly after, a different regular I hadn’t met before reached out and said that he’d been trying to get the bar to make merch for years and asked if I’d design a tshirt for them. As you can tell from my ‘Halloween costume’, drawing is not a particularly strong skill for me, but I felt happy to be asked and decided to take up the challenge. I submitted a very amateur sketch and excitedly awaited the results.
A couple of months after that, we found ourselves in Chicago once again and I arranged to pick up some tshirts from the bar. We had a great evening with new pals at the L&L and it was such a novelty to see my amateurish design in existence.


My new pal said it was a limited run of shirts, so who knows if they ever SOLD OUT. Stop on by Chicago’s best bar to find out.
As well as taking a couple for me and my beloved, I had a brainwave before we left the L&L that night. “We’re going to see Michael Shannon in a play tomorrow. Can I take another shirt on the off-chance that I get to say hi to him and give him one?”
The next day, a little hungover, I hastily scrawled a note bullet-pointing the above tale of my experience of the L&L Tavern and stuck it in a shitty plastic bag with the tshirt and took it to the theatre. The M-Shan play was excellent (‘Turret’, directed by Levi Holloway and also starring Travis A. Knight and Lawrence Grimm) and the three actors, as well as the assistant director did a little Q&A at the end. I was surprised and pleased that the actors stuck around for it given how exhausted they must have been after an incredibly physical performance. After the Q&A, a small crowd gathered around the actors for autographs, but everyone was ushered out. I asked someone who worked at the theatre if they’d pass my shitty plastic bag to Michael Shannon. “It’s just a tshirt” I reassured them, then headed out.
I waited in the lobby while my beloved ran to the bathroom and he urged me to speak to M-Shan, should he pass me on his way out. I was set on not doing that, because the dude had just put in a helluva shift and I didn’t want to stand in the way of him leaving, but as he was walking towards me, I think he sensed my panic and looked at me kindly in a way that suggested he’d be okay with me approaching him. I noticed he wasn’t holding the shitty plastic bag, so I thought I’d make sure he had received it and then let him get on with his day. I opened with “Hi, I’m so sorry, I don’t want to keep you” and he gave me a reassuring pat on the arm and leaned in to hear what I had to say. I told him I’d left something for him with someone and he said he didn’t get it so went back to the box office to retrieve it. For the second time in minutes, I blurted out, “it’s just a tshirt!” and he said “I like tshirts” appreciatively, which I believed, because he was wearing a Jesus Lizard tshirt at that very moment. He asked if I wanted him to open it in front of me. I told him that it was okay, so he didn’t and then we spoke for a couple of minutes until my beloved returned to us. As predicted, Michael Shannon is an absolute gem of a human being and it was a thrill to have this full-circle moment of being able to gift him a tshirt I designed for a bar I probably never would have known existed had it not been for a handful of words he’d written about it.
I don’t know if he still has the tshirt, has ever worn it or has even taken it out of the shitty plastic bag, but if I ever come across pictorial evidence of him wearing it, I will lose my goddamn mind.
Chicago remains the greatest city in the world.











